Things you need in your kitchen · Part 14

Oregano

origano

The herb that makes a pizza smell like Italy, and one of the few that is better dried than fresh.

A pot of fresh oregano on a wooden table in an Italian village at sunset, with dried oregano, olive oil and olives, and lavender fields behind
Fresh and dried oregano, olive oil and olives on the table at sunset.

Oregano is a small, woody herb in the mint family that grows wild on the dry, sunny hillsides around the Mediterranean. The name comes from Greek and is usually translated as “joy of the mountain”. In Italy it is the herb of the south, and in Greece it is on almost every table.

It tastes warm, earthy and a little peppery, with a slightly bitter edge. Unlike most herbs, oregano is often better dried than fresh: drying makes the flavour deeper and stronger. That is why it is the dried oregano that goes on top of a pizza, into a slow tomato sauce, over a Greek salad and into marinades for grilled lamb, chicken and vegetables.

A pinch over the pizza, and the kitchen smells like an Italian summer evening.

In your kitchen

How to use it

  1. Crush it between your fingers

    Rub dried oregano between your palms as you add it. It wakes up the oils and the scent.

  2. Dried early, fresh late

    Dried oregano can simmer with a tomato sauce from the start. Fresh leaves are milder and go in at the end, or over a salad.

  3. Use a light hand

    It is a strong herb. Half a teaspoon of dried oregano is often enough for a sauce for four, and too much tastes bitter.

  4. Keep it dark and dry

    Store dried oregano in a closed jar away from light and heat, and replace it when it no longer smells. A pot of fresh oregano thrives in a sunny window.

Cook with oregano

All Italian recipes →

Things you need in your kitchen — by Magnus & Lek