Things you need in your kitchen · Part 13

Basil

basilico · โหระพา

Sweet in Italy, peppery in Thailand: one herb with two homes.

A large bowl of fresh basil with herbs in terracotta pots, cherry tomatoes and olive oil on a sunny terrace in the Italian countryside
Fresh basil, tomatoes and olive oil on a terrace in the Italian countryside.

Few herbs are as important in two such different kitchens. In Italy, basil goes into pesto, tomato sauces and caprese, and on top of a margherita. In Thailand, it gives stir-fries and curries their fresh, aromatic lift, as in the street-food classic pad krapao.

But it is not the same basil. Italian sweet basil has soft leaves and a sweet, slightly peppery taste. In Thailand there are mainly two kinds of basil. They look alike but taste different: horapha (Thai basil) tastes of anise and liquorice, while kra pao (holy basil) is more peppery, with a hint of clove.

One name, two kitchens, and a very different taste on the plate.

In your kitchen

How to use it

  1. Choose the right basil

    Use sweet basil for pesto and tomato dishes, Thai basil for curries and holy basil for pad krapao. If you cannot find holy basil, Thai basil is the closest choice.

  2. Add it at the end

    Heat quickly takes away the flavour of the leaves. Tear them over a pasta just before serving, or stir them into the wok until they have only just wilted.

  3. Keep it out of the fridge

    Cold turns the leaves black. Stand a bunch in a glass of water on the worktop, like flowers, or keep a pot in a bright window.

Things you need in your kitchen — by Magnus & Lek