Things you need in your kitchen · Part 5

Lemongrass

ตะไคร้ · takrai

The bright, lemony grass you will find in almost every Thai kitchen, garden and market.

Fresh lemongrass stalks in a wooden bowl and sliced lemongrass on a plate, on a wooden porch above the rice fields at sunset
Fresh lemongrass, whole and sliced, on the porch at sunset.

Lemongrass is one of the most common ingredients in the Thai kitchen. In Thailand it grows in almost every garden and is sold in fresh bundles at every market, and you will find it in soups, curry pastes, salads, marinades and even drinks. It is a tall, tough grass, and only the pale, tightly packed lower part of the stalk is used. The outer leaves and green tops are too woody to eat.

The flavour is bright and lemony, but without the sourness of a lemon: fresh, floral and almost gingery. Together with galangal and makrut lime leaves it forms the aromatic trio behind Tom Yum and Tom Kha Gai. It is pounded into nearly every Thai curry paste, from red and green to massaman, rubbed into grilled chicken, and steeped into a refreshing lemongrass tea, nam takrai.

If the Thai kitchen has a scent, it is lemongrass.

In your kitchen

How to use it

  1. Trim and peel

    Cut off the root end and the green upper part. Peel away one or two of the tough outer layers until you reach the pale, tender core.

  2. Bruise it for soups

    Crush the stalk with the back of a knife or a pestle, then cut it into 5 cm pieces and simmer them in the broth. They flavour the soup but are not eaten.

  3. Slice it thin to eat

    For salads and curry pastes, slice the tender lower part paper-thin across the grain, then chop or pound it finely so no fibres remain.

  4. Store it

    Wrapped in a damp towel, lemongrass keeps for about two weeks in the fridge. It also freezes well, whole or chopped, for several months.

Cook with lemongrass

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Things you need in your kitchen — by Magnus & Lek