Things you need in your kitchen · Part 9

Garlic

กระเทียม · kra thiam

Pounded, fried or crushed with its skin on: the quiet base of almost every Thai dish.

A copper bowl of garlic bulbs and peeled cloves on a village porch at sunrise, with lemongrass, chillies and lime leaves
Garlic, fresh lemongrass and chillies on the porch at sunrise.

Garlic is everywhere in Thai cooking. Thai garlic has small cloves with thin, papery skin, often so thin that the cloves are crushed and cooked with the skin still on. It is milder and sweeter than many European varieties, but it is used generously: a stir-fry for two can easily take five or six cloves.

Garlic is the start of countless dishes. It is fried in oil before anything else goes into the wok, pounded into curry pastes and dipping sauces, and pounded with coriander root and white pepper into the classic Thai trio known as sam-kloe, the base for marinades and soups. Sliced thin and fried slowly, it becomes crispy fried garlic, scattered with its fragrant oil over noodles, rice soup and salads.

The wok is hot, the oil shimmers, and the garlic goes in first.

In your kitchen

How to use it

  1. Crush it in the mortar

    Pound garlic with a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle. It releases more flavour than chopping, and small Thai cloves can go in with their skin on.

  2. Fry it golden

    Slice it thin and fry it slowly in neutral oil until pale golden, then lift it out at once. It keeps cooking after it leaves the oil, and dark brown garlic tastes bitter.

  3. Make the Thai trio

    Pound garlic, coriander root and white peppercorns into a rough paste. Use it to marinate chicken or pork, or as the base of a clear soup.

  4. Store it dry and airy

    Keep whole bulbs in a cool, dry place with air around them, not in the fridge. They keep for weeks. Crispy fried garlic keeps in an airtight jar.

Cook with garlic

All Asian recipes →

Things you need in your kitchen — by Magnus & Lek